stevel
08-05-2013, 12:04 PM
My trusty HP 2100 stopped working last night, all 3 lights were lit. I found the service manual, pressed the two buttons and found the top light went out (bottom two were lit) indicating an error 50 - fuser problem.
So, I removed the fuser to see if there was anything visibly wrong, all looked good. I put everything back, still same error. I did a cold reset - still same error. Since mechanically it looked fine, I figured it must be the heater, so I put an ohm meter across the element (as near as I can tell - connector with the 2 heaver gauge wires) and it read about 25 ohms, which would be a few hundred watts at 120V, so that seemed OK.
Before I pull out the board that powers the fuser, any suggestions? I hate to buy a new fuser when a used 2100 can be had for about $40 on ebay, or a brand new laser printer for a little over $100 - and a I am not sure it's the fuser to begin with.
I don't know how many pages it has on it (can't print!), but probably very low - I inherited it when we closed down an office back in about 2005 where it saw light use, and it's printed maybe 1000-2000 pages since then (I have only changed the toner cartridge once). I like that there's a service manual, and it's well built - I like to fix things! It's been flawless and excellent print quality right up till the moment it died...
I am thinking of disconnecting the heater power and looking for 120VAC on startup - I assume it heats the fuser when you first turn it on? If there's nothing there, I guess the relay / triac or whatever switches the load is bad, or the driving circuit. Does anyone dive this deep when troubleshooting?
Thanks!
Steve
So, I removed the fuser to see if there was anything visibly wrong, all looked good. I put everything back, still same error. I did a cold reset - still same error. Since mechanically it looked fine, I figured it must be the heater, so I put an ohm meter across the element (as near as I can tell - connector with the 2 heaver gauge wires) and it read about 25 ohms, which would be a few hundred watts at 120V, so that seemed OK.
Before I pull out the board that powers the fuser, any suggestions? I hate to buy a new fuser when a used 2100 can be had for about $40 on ebay, or a brand new laser printer for a little over $100 - and a I am not sure it's the fuser to begin with.
I don't know how many pages it has on it (can't print!), but probably very low - I inherited it when we closed down an office back in about 2005 where it saw light use, and it's printed maybe 1000-2000 pages since then (I have only changed the toner cartridge once). I like that there's a service manual, and it's well built - I like to fix things! It's been flawless and excellent print quality right up till the moment it died...
I am thinking of disconnecting the heater power and looking for 120VAC on startup - I assume it heats the fuser when you first turn it on? If there's nothing there, I guess the relay / triac or whatever switches the load is bad, or the driving circuit. Does anyone dive this deep when troubleshooting?
Thanks!
Steve